The city of lights and its pompous being never downplays when it comes to hosting Couture week. Even under a snow blanket, grey skies, clouds and forbidden temperatures to any sensible human being, Paris has the knack for fashion that surpasses itself every season. Choosing the collections to feature is not easy task for anyone as in awe of fashion as we all are, but surprisingly there’s a fil rouge that runs through all of them: a world of whimsical gardens and forests.
It makes it all more magical.

For Chanel Haute Couture Karl delivered a forest of oak trees with invisible birds chirping at the Grand Palais. The collection is chic, haute, romantic and lavish with cascades of sequins, chiffon and mock embroideries. A magical fairy tale of models strutting with feathers on their eyelashes and two big trends: pointy shoulders and open toe thigh-high boots that serve as pants under skirts, tailored suits and long dresses.

Valentino. Haute Couture has to be magical, and the designer duo imagined this garden, like a waltz, where grace and exquisiteness prevail over the gardener’s hard work. French gardens are well manicured, English gardens have the rough look as if left to mother nature, alas not less curated, this collection is a sum of hundreds of hours of charming lightness: ethereal and rich. Layers of organza, rolled crepe, tulle, butterflies and flowers embroidered and hand painted, crystals and topaz beads and guipure, a delicate and lace-like couture fabric. To contrast the scenery, LA understated natural looks.

Dior Haute Couture and two words: oh Raf! The waterfall of flowers of last Couture collection was paired by its ‘very idea of spring’ when nature explodes ruthlessly impeccably reinterpreted from the Dior’s dream of the garden he would retreat to. Flowers were elaborated through the most sophisticated fabrications and embroideries by les petit mains. Pinched waist, the Bar jacket, the tulip shape dramatically accentuated were some of the brands staples that Raf reconnected to. Pants and pockets on skirts are his effort to bring reality into couture, to connect a world full of colors like the spring and his architectural and conceptual soul.

Ulyana Sergeenko. The Russian designer went west, on a trip down memory lane, featuring a giant illustrated fairy tales book for her second namesake couture collection. The models strutted on a yellow brick raggedy runway as pioneer women, donning Sergeenko’s signature nipped waist flowy skirts topped with aprons and chiffon off the shoulder blouses. Despite the overall theatrical mood, which didn’t save her from some criticism of being a newbie, the collection was feminine and showed usage of couture fabrics and equivalent techniques that granted her the Olympus next to the titans.

What else to expect from whimsical Anne “musing” [read acting as muse] for Valentino other than getting married in an ethereal ivory silk point d’esprit tulle  designed, created, ideated by the Emperor himself with the bride actively involved.

The wholesome prettiness was conceived in the Atelier in Rome by the same seamstresses that have been working for la Maison forever. 

Now, since everything was all-a-bride-dreams-of inspired, the setting of the ceremony, the ideal husband, the casual chic romantic countryside and a flawless wedding gown designed by a master in command in the world of fashion (not found through the racks in Miracle Mile, Coral Gables, for God sake), detractors couldn’t shut up and had to find a nun in a stripper club: what’s with the headpiece? 

Girl, 

‘1920’s inspired lace flower beaded with crystals’, is it enough or you’ve gotta be bitter just because you are not engaged?

And then, excusez moi, but what can you get out of a grainy picture shot at a distance by a desperate paparazzo, to begin with?

You must be insane to insinuate some wardrobe malfunction made by Valentino. 

And here she was stunning (and glowing, since she was getting married in a week).

‘The Emperor’ is the movie that depicts Valentino’s life, heritage, style and glamorous conduct. And he did it again, this time with the extraordinary experience of designing the costumes for the New York City Ballet.

Statuesque and whimsical Anne

Details, secrets and little lies 

Source: www.vogue.com

(Source: fashionologie.com)

Expectation and a state of excitement. 

The days a long gone when Pitti was strictly a man show with two yearly appointments January and July then followed by Milan with woman in September and March. Now Pitti Immagine Uomo has a plus one, called Pitti W, a kermesse of man + woman and the dates of the summer edition are anticipated to mid June. If you blame it on the greenhouse effect and the ozone hole and the Italian manufacturers of fabrics and their idiosyncrasy  for being late at deliveries, it makes it all a disordered chaos that attracts some 30,000 visitors.

So we know when the games will begin Thursday 19 of June and where, my beloved Florence. Details are to follow.

On a discreet and not so humble note: Florence used to be the capital of Italy at some point and the palazzo, warehouses, parks, gardens, museums that once belonged to the Medici are magnificent and plenty to leave room to imagination and choices. i wouldn’t worry.

Here some examples.

UOMO (chez la Fortezza da Basso) N. 82

Known to a few, Maison Valentino under the auspices of Maria Chiara Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli has chosen Italy and Florence to show man. When and where? To be confirmed.

The coveted show. Menswear guest designer of the season is Maison Carven by Guillaume Henry that however will take place … in a top secret location. 

W (chez La Dogana di Via Dalfonda) N.10

We only know that Peter Pilotto is the guest designer at Pitti W and it will have an event whose date is still TBC.

WHAT MAKES IT ALL EVEN MORE FASHION.

Per Sempre Diva,  a curated exhibition celebrating 50 years of Marilyn’s departure as the “special girl” that will never leave us at Museo Ferragamo, down under in the basements of the staggering Palazzo Spini Feroni. 

We read in Firenze Made in Tuscany on a show called Delphinarium showcasing masterpieces by Delfina Delettrez (in a sort of battle on using her final Fendi name nowadays).

As you are in Florence, just know that Sutor Mantellassi turned 100 years old (if you have never worn, tried or owned one of their shoes it is time!).

INSIDER SCOOPS.

Atelier Mazzanti for locals is THE place to access for any sort of haberdasheries for the rest it is where the uber symbolic camellia by Chanel was born. Well, they have created a retrospective of their 80 years of silent Fashion history making. 

You may wonder my invested interest in Pitti Immagine Uomo: my thesis on Fashion Sociology at the Casare Alfieri in Florence was “hosted” by Luigi Settembrini, the then Director of Communication of Pitti Immagine.

Renee divine in Emilio Pucci

Beyonce decadent Hollywood glam

Florence twirling her Alexander McQueen 

Amish Bowles wears couture on a working day and surely didn’t disappoint 

Valentino (turned 80 days before) was proud of SJP for choosing this taffeta gown. She could have gone Little House in the Prairie, but she went fantastically glam. 

Yours truly.

(Source: fashionologie.com)